Modelling related jargon
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8x10 GLOSSY
Also called a headshot, it refers to the standard size of the photo commercial print models are required to provide to agents and casting directors.

AGENCY
An agency is a company that represents models, actors and talent of any kind. A modeling agency is responsible for representing and promoting its roster of models and booking jobs for them. Modeling agencies handle contracts, payments and the whole business side of the model's life. Sometimes, especially with larger agencies, the agency will "lend" the model money for a photo shoot, comp cards, clothes, an apartment, etc. The agency will then pay itself back by taking money out of the model's first earnings. Agency also can refer to an advertising agency. Ad agencies contact model agencies when they need to hire models for commercials and print ads.

AGENCY BOOK
An agency book is the book agencies distribute to all of their clients to promote their models. The book contains the comp card for each model represented by the agency. Models are required to pay a fee to have their comp card printed in the book.

AGENT
An Agent is the person who represents you, sells you to clients and books jobs for you. You may have a specific agent who books jobs for you or several agents at your agency may share the booking. A modeling agent is the same as a booking agent.

APPOINMENT BOOK
Models use an appointment book keep track of their sometimes hectic schedule. It is very useful when filling out vouchers and making sure you've been paid for all the time you worked. Palm Pilots and other electronic organizers are used more and more.

BATHING SUIT SHOT
A photo of a model in a bathing suit.

BEAUTY SHOT
A close-up shot of part or all of the face (lips, eyes, etc.). This kind of photo is usually used in a cosmetics print ad or in a magazine editorial about skin care products and make-up products.

BIO
Short for biography, this is a resume of a models life with particular jobs highlighted.

BONUS
A chunk of additional money paid to the model after a job is completed. Bonuses are not always given in cash as some designers may give clothes as bonuses.And no matter what form the bonus takes, the agency takes 20% of the value of the bonus. Bonuses can be given when a shoot is long, or when a client loves the pics and wants to use them more often than the original contract.

BOOK
To book a model's time for a job; also the book or portfolio a model carries to go-sees, jobs, etc.

BOOKER
Another term for booking agent or agent.

BOOKING
A booking is a job or work that a model gets. When you get a job, you say you "booked" a job.

BOOKING AGENT
Another term for agent. This is the person at the agency who represents you and books jobs for you.

BOOKOUT
When you tell your agent you're not available for a job, for either professional or personal reasons, and the agent cannot book you during that time, you've "booked out" for that time. As a professional, you need to be responsible for your own time. so to help prevent cancellations and angry clients, you should keep every booking agent you work with aware of your schedule.

BUYOUT
A Buyout is an agreement by an agent and a model that allows their client (Vogue, the Gap, whatever) to use the TV commercial or photograph that the model appeared in wherever and however they want, for a specific time period, and fee.


CALL BACK
A callback is a second, third or fourth audition for a job. When a client has seen everyone for a particular job, they will then call the people they liked best to come back and try out again. There can be more than one call back.

CALL TIME
The call time is the exact time you need to show up for work. If it's a TV commercial, expect it to be very early in the morning.

CALL SHEET
The notice that goes out to all people involved in a photo shoot that gives the details of the shoot. Important information on the call sheet includes your call time, the location of the shoot and how you should appear upon arrival. Clients may want the models to arrive already in full make-up and hair or they may want the models to show up natural. If you don't know this information by the night before the shoot, call your agent and find out.

CASTING
A call for models for a specific role or job. A closed casting call is one in which the talent has been handpicked and invited to appear. An open casting call is usually advertised and open to anyone.

CLEAN-CLEAN
A specification on a call-sheet that means clean hair, clean face. You should show up for the photo shoot with no make-up on and freshly washed hair. The opposite of this is "hair and make-up ready," which is self-explanatory.

CLIENT
The one who pays your salary. A model can have several types of clients: 1) The person or company who hires you for a job. These kinds of clients include: fashion magazines, fashion designers, clothing catalogues or advertising agencies; and 2) The product manufacturers who hire the ad agencies to produce the ad. A representative from the client company usually shows up at photo shoots to ensure that the photos are making their products look good. Modeling agencies have clients, too. These include 1) Anyone who wants to hire a model for a job, like a fashion magazines, a designer or an ad agency and 2) The model. When modeling agents refer to their "clients," they are usually referring to the models they represent, but it could also mean the magazines and advertisers that hire their models. Whenever you're on a shoot, treat the clients with respect. They are the ones paying you and they will not hesitate to fire you if you behave unprofessionally or waste their time.

CLOSE UP
A photograph taken up close, usually of a face.

COMMERCIAL AGENT
A person or an agency that represents actors for TV and radio commercials (and not for print ads - that's a commercial print agent).

COMMERCIAL PRINT ADVERTISING
Advertisements that appear in print for consumer products and services.

COMMERCIAL PRINT AGENT
A person, agency that represents models or actors for work in print advertising.

COMMERCIAL PRINT MODEL
Commercial print models don't model clothing, but pose in print or in commercial ads. Because advertisers are trying to reach the general population, they need regular people for their ads so there are no specific requirements. A lot of commercial print models are also actors or former fashion models, but anyone who looks good in a photo and doesn't fit the fashion model criteria, stands a chance. Most commercial print models do not sign with one agency, but freelance with two or three agencies in their area. Commercial print modeling is very profitable and a lot of professional commercial print models earn up to $50,000 a year.

COMMISSION
The percentage your agency takes from your earnings.

COMPOSITE CARD
Also referred to as a comp card, zed card or model business card. A comp card is a piece of card printed with at least two photos of you in various poses, settings, outfits and looks . It includes your name, your contact information, usually your agency's info and all your stats. Comp cards come in lots of different formats depending on the city, agency and the type of model you are. Agencies will usually issue comp cards for you after they sign you. If you don't have an agent, getting your own cards made will cost you between £100 and £400.

CONFIGURATIONS
The number of models posed in a photograph. Some standard fashion configurations are singles, doubles, triples, and groups.

CONTACT SHEET
A photographer's term for a sheet of film printed with small versions of all the photos taken during the photo shoot. From the contact sheet, the photographer and the client will choose which shots they want to print and enlarge.

CONTRACT
There are several types of contracts.
1. A contract from a modeling agency guaranteeing a certain amount of work per year. (Note: If a modeling agency likes you, they may actually tell you they've "signed" you, but in fact, you will sign nothing. That's just the way it's done. Only in rare cases will an agency ask you to sign a contract.)
2. Contracts from companies that sell products. These contracts, usually cosmetic contracts, are worth a lot of money, of which your agent will get a percentage.
3. A contract offered to winners of modeling contests like Ford's Supermodel-of-the-Year contest and Elite's Look-of-the-Year contest. The winners receive a modeling contract worth up to $250,000. However, if you win, you are not handed a check for this amount. You will have to work for it. The dollar amount merely represents the monetary value of the work the agency promises you. You are guaranteed $250,000 worth of jobs. However these contests are a fantastic means to start your career. Many winners do go on to very successful modeling careers.


DAY RATE
What a model is paid per day. This varies depending on your status, the market you're in, and the client. Day rates can range from $400 to $10,000 and even up to $25,000 for a supermodel.

DAYLIGHT STUDIO
A photography studio that is lit with natural light, usually by way of windows and skylights.

DEMONSTRATION MODELING
A type of modeling in which the model demonstrates how to use a product, usually at a department store, car show or trade show.

DOUBLE-PAGE SPREAD
A photograph in a magazine that is printed across two pages. The crease between the two pages is called the gutter.

DROPPED
If you were dropped you are no longer represented by your agency or plain and simple fired. Models get dropped by agencies for behaving unprofessionally (showing up late for jobs, being rude to clients), and not getting work.

EDITORIAL MODELING
Editorial Modeling is modeling for pictures in magazines and other publications. All types of models are needed and in general, there are no height or weight restrictions. The ideal editorial model has good skin, hair and teeth, well-defined features and a slender, well-proportioned body. The most important quality is being photogenic, as what you look like in person is not always a good indicator of what you'll look like on a photo. Edidorial modeing jobs are very sought after and most female high-end editorial models for Magazines like Vogue, Marie Claire, GQ, Bazaar, Elle etc. are at least 5'8" and a size 4-6 . Males tend to be six feet tall and wear a size 40. The most successful editorial models are cover girls and supermodels, but there are thousands of other editorial models who also make a good living out of it. The largest editorial opportunities are in New York, Paris, Milan, London, Munich, Hamburg, Tokyo, Sydney, Miami, Madrid and Barcelona.

EXCLUSIVE
An agreement between a client and a model to work exclusively with that one client. For example, a designer may pay a model to do their runway show exclusively, and not to do anyone else's runway show.

FASHION MODEL
Male or female model with a very specific height, size, and shape. Men must be 6' to 6'2'' tall and wear a 42-regular suit. Women must be at least 5'8'' and wear a dress size 4-6. With very few exceptions, all fashion models have good skin, long legs, well-defined features, and generally slender frames.

FIT MODEL
A male or female model fashion designers and clothing manufacturers use to size and measure clothes for production. Fit models must have very specific measurements and proportions that are geared towards fitting clothes for the greatest number of customers per size.

FITTING
The session that takes place before the photo shoot where the clothes to be modeled are fit onto the model. Based on the model's particulars, the clothes are usually altered to fit. When you go to a fitting, be prepared to stand around partially clothed all day long, in front of several people. These people will usually be stylists, seamstresses and designers, and will be more interested in looking at the clothes than at you.

FREELANCE
A model or an actor listed with multiple agencies (as opposed to one particular agency) or a model who works without an agent. Most commercial print models are freelance and work as independent contractors.

FULL-LENGTH
A photo that shows the model from head to toe.
GATE FOLD
A foldout magazine cover that extends.

GETTING SIGNED
When an agency agrees to take you on and represent you, you have "signed" with that agency. However, you do not actually sign a contract. Getting signed is a verbal agreement between the model and the agency. Managers may in some cases ask the model to sign a Management Contract that is promissory and allows a manager to collect money for them and represent them. Commercial print models can freelance for several different agencies, and therefore don't usually sign contracts with their agents.

GO-SEE
An appointment to see a client, casting director or photographer about a potential booking. Go-sees are like mini-auditions, so you should bring your portfolio, comp cards or other photos and dress and behave appropriately. Request go-sees are when a client calls an agency asking to see specific models. General go-sees are when the client calls the agency and asks them to send over a specific type. For example, their ten best blondes.

GROUP SHOT
A photograph composed with a group of models (more than three).

HALFTIME
Models are paid halftime for all travel time. If your day rate is $100 an hour, you'll get $50 for each hour you travel to and from that job. Your agency also gets 20% of your halftime travel rates.

HAUTE COUTURE
Haute Couture, french for high-fashion is extremely high-end, tailor-made designer clothes that only few people in the world can afford. High-fashion editorial models work in couture.

HEADSHEET
A promotional poster or foldout card containing multiple headshots of the various models represented by an agency. A headsheet is mailed to each of the agency's clients to promote their current roster of talent. The models that appear on the headsheet have to pay.

HEADSHOT
A photograph taken of the face from the shoulders up.

HIGH-FASHION MODELLING
Modeling for covers and editorial layouts for the top fashion magazines in the world and in print ads for designer clothing.

HOURLY RATE
The fee the model receives for working one hour. Most jobs have a one-hour minimum and the hour is billed in 15-minute increments.
JOB NUMBER
The agency assigns a number to each job they book one of their models on. You will see the job number on your statements, invoices, and checks. It's a good idea to keep track of the job numbers for each job you are hired for, to make sure you are getting paid for all the jobs you have done.

LIGHT BOX
A clear Lucite plastic box that lights up, used for viewing contact sheets and slides. Also called a light table.

LINE
The collection of clothing introduced each season by a fashion designer or, in some cases, a clothing company.

MAIL-IN
To do a mail-in is to send comp cards to agencies via mail, as opposed to dropping comp cards off in person.

MODEL RELEASE
A legal document provided by the client and signed by the model or the agent that allows the client to use the photographs for various usages. The client is only allowed to use the photographs for usages they have bought.

MOOD
Happy, sad, pensive, joyful - the emotion the model is asked to display in a photograph or on a runway.

PERCENTAGE
The percentage is the fees your agent takes out of the money you earn. Agents usually get 20% of your gross for each job.

POLAROID
A type of camera that produces a developed film instantly. On castings and go-sees, Polaroids are usually taken of every model and stapled on to their resumes and headsheets.

PORTFOLIO
A portofolio is the notebook a model brings to castings and go-sees that contains their best photos, usually size 8 ½ " x 11".

PRESS RELEASE
A story written by a public relations company distributed to the media. Press releases are used to announce vitally important events in a model's life, such as attendance at a movie's premiere, or a recently signed contract.

PRINCIPAL
The main subject in the photograph, as opposed to an extra or background model.

PRINT WORK
Photographs shot for print mediums (magazines, print ads, etc.)

PROMOTION
An event that may require models to promote a product, a service, a new store, etc.;

PURCHASE ORDER
A sheet sent by the client to the modeling agency to confirm the job, the model(s), the dates and times, the location and the hourly or day rate they agree to pay. The agency signs off on it and sends it back.

RATE
Short for day rate. The amount of money a model or actor earns for a job. Rates are paid by the hour, the half-day or the day. Rates are negotiated by the models agency.

REEL
A videotape montage of a model's work. This could include clips from shows, commercials, industrials, etc.

RELEASE
A document or contract signed by the model or actors that specifies how the client can use the photographs or film.

RESIDUAL
This is the fee paid to the model every time the commercial is broadcast after its initial run.

RESUME
Your education, training, and professional history all on one page, neatly formatted and typo-free. Résumés are usually stapled to the back of the headshot . Once signed, models should use a comp card instead of a headshot and résumé.

SCOUT
Scouts are the ones who discover models on the street, shopping malls and other public places. More and more scouts use the net to find potential models.Scouts can either be employed by the agency or work as a freelance scout. When a scout discovers someone with modeling potential, they will try to get their discovery signed by the agency. If the agency wants to represent the model, the scout receives a percentage of the model's future earnings for the first one to three years. WARNING: There are many disreputable scouts out there who are looking for gullible young people, not potential models. They may approach you and tell you they'll get you signed with an agency, but all they really want from you is money for classes, money for photographs, or money for representation. Legitimate agencies do not make models pay for representation.

SHOWROOM
Where clothing designers display their collections to buyers, sometimes using models. Showrooms are usually not open to the public.

SIGN-IN SHEET
The piece of paper the model signs when he or she arrives at a casting, open call, or go-see. It lets the person in charge know who showed up and which names to call.

SPEC SHOT
Test photos taken for a specific job.

SPOT
A television commercial.

STATS
Short for statistics. Statistics include all the specific sizes and measurements a model needs to print on his or her composite card. The stats required depend on the type of model. A female fashion model must list her height, waist in inches, hips in inches, bust in inches, cup size, dress size, shoe size, hair color, and eye color. A male fashion model must list his height in inches, chest in inches, waist in inches, inseam in inches, shirt size, collar size, sleeve length, suit size, shoe size, hair color, and eye color. Adult models do not list their age or their weight.

STUDIO
The studio is the place photographers use for photo shoots.

STYLIST
Professional stylists are hired to style the clothing, hair, and makeup for the models on a photo shoot. The stylist can choose the clothing, add accessories, design the set, and design the look of the hair and makeup (but not actually do the hair and makeup - usually the stylist will direct the hired hair and makeup artists).

SUPERMODEL
A supermodel is a very famous and very successful fashion model.

TEARSHEET
A tearsheet is the actual page torn from the magazine a model appeared in. Tearsheets should be put in a models portofolio.They are better than photos, because they show the kind of work the model has already done.

TESTING
In a test a photographer shoots a few photographs of a model to see how she or he look under different in various lighting and make-up, etc.

TRADE SHOW
An event which is sponsored by a manufacturer to promote their products. Models will often be used to promote the vendors' exhibits.

USAGE FEE
The fee paid to models for using photographs in various formats or various usages. See below.

USAGES
Models get paid for each different format and usage in which their photograph is used. These different formats, or usages, may include: magazine covers, consumer magazines, print ads, bus ads, subway ads, product packaging, trade magazines, billboards,direct mail, magazine editorials, posters, catalogues, brochures, point-of-purchase (point-of-sale or p-o-p), ), newspapers, etc. The model receives an additional fee for each usage the client buys. Usages also vary according to time and region. The longer the advertisemebt runs and the more markets in which it appears, the more the models fees increase. The largest usage is the unlimited time usage, worldwide buyout. That means the client can use the photograph everywhere in the world in every possible usage forever.

VOUCHER
A voucher is a form models use to get paid for their work. Agencies provide vouchers to their models, and it is the model's responsibility to bring the voucher to the job, have it signed by the client and the photographer, and to return it to the agency's accounting department. With the vouchers, the agency bills the client for the model's time and then pays the model his or her percentage, in most cases 80% of the gross earnings.

WEATHER PERMITTING
A term used by the client when booking an outdoor job. If the weather not suitable, the client can hire you for an extra day.

ZED CARD
Also referred to as a comp card, zed card or model business card. A comp card is a piece of card printed with at least two photos of you in various poses, settings, outfits and looks . It includes your name, your contact information, usually your agency's info and all your stats. Comp cards come in lots of different formats depending on the city, agency and the type of model you are. Agencies will usually issue comp cards for you after they sign you. If you don't have an agent, getting your own cards made will cost you between $300 and $1,000